If you’ve been shopping for a sustainable fabric for your next sewing project, you might have heard of acetate fabric. You’re likely wondering what it is, how it’s made, and if it’s truly a sustainable material, as some people say. Allow us to answer those questions one by one.
What is Acetate Fabric?
Acetate is a synthetic fabric that comes from the cellulose of renewable sources like wood pulp and cotton linters. This is the reason it’s also called “cellulose acetate.”
According to the Utah State University Cooperative Extension, when acetate was first invented in Europe, it was used as a varnish for airplane wings. It wasn’t until 1924 in the United States that it was spun into fibers, finding its second purpose as a textile.
Acetate fabric possesses a high luster and excellent drape, making it an excellent low-cost alternative to rayon or silk.
How is Acetate Made, and What are Its Applications?
The cellulose fibers from wood pulp or cotton linters are combined with acetic acid, acetic anhydride, and sulphuric acid to make cellulose acetate. The new material is spun into fibers to produce fabric, which is then used to make neckties, graduation gowns, scarves, blouses, dresses, lining, draperies, and upholstery.
Many fashion brands use acetate fabric as part of their material options. Some of them are eco-conscious brands like:
- Reformation – a maker of sustainable women’s clothing and accessories.
- Amour Vert – a California-based fashion brand designing and creating responsibly made clothing for women.
- Patagonia – a renowned outdoor apparel and gear retailer that uses sustainable materials in its collections.
- Stella McCartney – English fashion label that pioneered the conscious luxury movement.
- Eileen Fisher – a casual clothing label for women that uses eco-friendly fabrics.
As a moderately hard thermoplastic, acetate turns soft when heated and solidifies when cooled. Such property allows it to be molded or turned into sheets. So, it has been used as a component for photographic film and optical films, water treatment membranes, cigarette filters, and diapers. It’s also the most common material for creating frames for eyeglasses.
Interestingly, the Lego bricks from 1949 were made from cellulose acetate. They were the forerunners of the plastic bricks we know today and were named ‘Automatic Binding Bricks’ in honor of the Allied forces that helped free Europe in 1945. The company used cellulose acetate until 1963.
The Good and Bad About Acetate Fabric
As a fabric, acetate has plenty of good qualities. As mentioned earlier, it has excellent drape and luster, making it suitable for soft garments and draperies. It’s also cost-effective since its raw material is abundant and its production is less intensive than other fabrics. As such, it’s been used as an affordable alternative to silk.
Besides those qualities, acetate fabric produces little static and does not pill or shrink. It also dries quickly and is mold- and mildew-resistant.
Of course, acetate fabric has its challenges that limit its use. It wrinkles quite easily and has poor resistance, tenacity, and elasticity. It’s also prone to melting when exposed to heat. Due to these, acetate fabric may demand more care and maintenance than other fabrics.
The good news is these issues can be addressed by combining cellulose acetate with other materials like silk, wool, cotton, and nylon. Through proper blending, the resulting fabrics display excellent wrinkle recovery, good heft and handle, durability, and dimensional stability at an economical price.
The Ugly Truth About Acetate Fabric
As previously discussed, the raw material of acetate fabric is cellulose derived from natural and renewable sources like wood pulp and cotton linter. As a plant-based material, it is biodegradable.
However, existing literature points out that the rate of acetate’s biodegradability is affected by the acetyl group added to it during production and the conditions it is subjected to. That means it may take a while to degrade, although still faster than other general-purpose resin, which can take decades or hundreds of years.
The other issue we have about acetate is how it’s produced. Like all synthetic materials, acetate uses different petroleum-based chemicals that harm the environment and people. It also uses significant energy, equating to a high carbon footprint.
By the end of its service life, acetate can still impact the environment. As a semi-synthetic material, acetate leaves behind tiny particles as it degrades, eventually ending up in the soil and waterways. In a recent study, cellulose acetate was identified as one of the materials significantly contributing to the microplastic problem in the Arctic sea ice.
Our Verdict
Considering all the outlined facts, we won’t say that acetate is a genuinely sustainable material. Yet, compared to other synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon, acetate has a more minor carbon footprint.
If you can’t avoid using acetate products, we recommend that you investigate where their cellulose material is sourced from. Make sure the wood pulp or cotton linter is responsibly sourced so it is somehow aligned with sustainability principles.
You should also opt for products labeled as ‘bio-acetate’ or ‘bio-plastic,’ as this indicates that they do not contain petroleum-based materials. The label is commonly used in eyewear, so if you ever need one, consider the brands below. These brands use bio-acetate and other sustainable materials to create their products, including stainless steel and recycled materials.
- Pala: This certified B Corp brand produces long-lasting eyewear using bio-acetate sourced from sustainable suppliers. A portion of its net sales is used to fund changes in eyecare in Africa.
- Eco by Modo: This brand creates eco-friendly eyewear using recycled stainless steel and plant-based acetate.
- Sea2See: Striving to combat ocean pollution while creating sustainable eyewear, Sea2See’s frames are made from acetate and upcycled marine plastic waste.
- Moscot: With over a century of eyewear heritage, Moscot combines its optical expertise and commitment to sustainability to make eyewear frames using biodegradable acetate.
- Karün: This brand promotes resource conservation by creating eyewear from recycled fishing nets and plant-based acetate.
