Cotton is a valuable non-food agricultural commodity. Each year, 27 million tons of it is produced globally, with 75 percent coming from India, China, the US, Brazil, and Pakistan.
Utility is by far the most important characteristic of cotton. Its fibers are spun to create different types of fabric, from lightweight laces to thick synthetic blends. The cottonseed is processed to create oil, animal feed, and mulch, to name a few. Even its stalks, which were once considered waste, have found their use as biofuel, paper, and composite materials for construction.
Yet, few know that cotton linters–the fuzzy cellulose fibers left behind in the cottonseed after ginning–are also used to create different products. Cupro fabric is one of them, and it’s said to be a more sustainable alternative to silk and rayon fabrics.
But is it really?
What is Cupro Fabric, and How Did It Come to Be?
Cotton Linter – Image Source
If you love a good textile, you’re likely familiar with Tencel lyocell and modal. They’re derived from plant-based materials that are chemically treated to create fibers from which they’re generated.
These two fabrics are often the first to come to mind when talking about “regenerated cellulose textiles.” But Cupro needs to be included on the list as well.
As we’ve mentioned earlier, Cupro comes from cotton linters, which are usually too small to spin into other fibers. As a result, they used to be discarded after the staple cotton was removed.
The origin of Cupro is a bit vague with different sources having competing stories as to when and where the fabric was made.
Many people credit German manufacturer Vereinigte Glanzstoff Fabriken AG for developing the first cuprammonium rayon for textiles in 1899. But it was J.P. Bemberg AG’s improved version of the material in 1904 that made artificial fiber a direct competition to real silk. That synthetic fiber is still being produced today by Japanese manufacturer Asahi Kasei, going under the trade name Bemberg™.
Qualities and Applications of Cupro
Eileen Fisher Cupro Dress – Image Source
The qualities of cupro are comparable to real silk. Its very fine fibers lend it a soft silk-like handle and an excellent drape. It also acquired cotton’s breathable and hypoallergenic qualities but with the added benefit of being somewhat resistant to stretching and shrinking.
These same qualities are what made cupro one of the favorite fabrics of fashion designers and enthusiasts. It’s been widely used for making suits, dresses, and blouses. It’s also preferred for producing lightweight garments like lingerie and linings.
Many household textiles are also crafted from cupro. Thanks to its luxurious feel, it’s used for curtains, bedding, and upholstery.
We’d like to note that because cupro makes for a good alternative to silk, it doesn’t possess the same level of durability as some of its rayon cousins. So we don’t think it’s a great material choice for garments that you’d frequently wear and wash.
How Cupro Fairs in Terms of Sustainability
There’s a lot of talk about cupro being a sustainable fabric, but it’s safer to say that it’s somewhere in the middle.
By now, you likely know that cotton production is one of the most resource-intensive and unethical industries. Here are some facts to prove that, according to The World Counts:
- A hectare of cotton cropland is sprayed with almost 1kg of harmful pesticides, including nerve agents and neurotoxins.
- Many child laborers and slaves are involved in cotton production, exposing them directly to harmful chemicals without any form of protection.
- Global cotton production is so extremely water intensive that it has virtually emptied the Aral Sea, which used to be the world’s 4th largest lake.
- Cotton cultivation also causes soil degradation, erosion, and deforestation.
As a byproduct of cotton production, cupro helps maximize the plant’s value and reduce waste.
Also, since cupro is plant-derived, it is completely vegan and cruelty-free. That is opposed to real silk, which requires the sacrifice of silkworms, posing an ethical dilemma in its production.
Now, here’s where cupro’s sustainable credential gets a bit foggy.
Dissolving cellulose from cotton linter and transforming it into a semi-synthetic fiber uses a host of chemicals that can be harmful to workers who handle the production of cupro. These include copper oxide, ammonia, and caustic soda.
Exposure to high concentrations of these chemicals immediately causes irritation to the eyes, nose, throat, and respiratory tract. They can also lead to serious health effects as a result of long-term exposure, including dermatitis, lung, kidney, and liver damage, and/or even death.
Aside from their health effects, these harmful chemicals can also harm the environment when not disposed of properly. For instance, nanoparticles from copper oxide, which often find their way into soil and fresh waterways were found to reduce microbial activities and inhibit growth in some plants.
Cupro production also demands significant amounts of water and energy, which further adds to its carbon footprint. Also, while this regenerated cellulose fiber is biodegradable, the additives and dyes used to give it color are not. Meaning, they significantly affect water bodies, causing toxicity and mutagenicity in aquatic habitats and organisms.
Improvements in Cupro Production
Before you think of canceling cupro because of the environmental impact associated with its production, know that improvements are being made to make it more sustainable.
Asahi Kasei, the maker of Bemberg™–which is perhaps the most notable cupro brand around–is very transparent about where and how it sources the raw materials for its cupro production.
It also uses renewable energy and a closed-loop system to develop its synthetic fabric. That means it has resources in place to capture, recycle, and reuse major chemicals used during production rather than dumping them into water bodies.
Making Your Cupro Garments Last Longer
Although sustainable production of cupro still has a long way to go, Asahi Kasei is setting a good example for responsible production practices. Hopefully, this will inspire other textile manufacturers to follow suit.
Until then, you can consider other sustainable alternatives to silk, such as Tencel lyocell, recycled satin, and bamboo lyocell.
You may also want to consider the care tips below to prolong the life of your cupro garments, keeping it soft and silky for longer and preventing you from purchasing new ones.
- Follow the manufacturer’s washing instructions to ensure proper treatment of your cupro garments.
- Turn them inside out so their outer surface won’t fade during washing.
- Wash them in cold water on a gentle cycle to retain material integrity and preserve colors.
- Hand wash lightweight cupro garments to avoid damaging them.
- Use a gentle detergent and avoid using bleach which can damage the fabrics.
- Do not wring the fabric to maintain its shape.
- Line or air dry them away from direct sunlight and heat sources that can damage and discolor fibers.
- Immediately mend small tears and loose threads to prevent further damage.
Final Thoughts
It’s clear that cupro fabric is an excellent alternative to silk. It’s soft and has a great drape, not to mention it’s breathable and hypoallergenic. Being made from what’s considered a waste of cotton production, cupro maximizes the plant’s value and helps in reducing textile waste. We also appreciate that it’s vegan and cruelty-free.
If there are two things that this fabric can improve on in the context of sustainability, they’re the intensive resource consumption and use of potential non-biodegradable chemicals in its production. Fortunately, manufacturers like Asahi Kasei are taking steps to address these challenges. So, we think that a more sustainable cupro production is within the horizon.
If you truly must buy clothes made with cupro, make sure that the brand is transparent about its cupro sourcing and production practices. Doing so will ensure that you are making a responsible purchase.
